Dua makanan ini, es godir dan krupuk upil, akrab di jalanan Surabaya. Makanan khas yang tak pudar seiring zaman yang berjalan.
Surabayastory.com – Es godir dan krupuk upil bersatu dalam satu rombong. Itulah yang banyak terlibat di Surabaya sekarang. Es godir dan krupuk upil adalah jajanan di masa lalu. Sekitar tahun 1970-an sudah ada di Surabaya. Namun mulai naik daun sebagai street food (makanan jalanan) yang dikenal sejak tahun 1980-an. Namun kala itu, es godir dan krupuk upil, dijual terpisah.
Es godir dulu dijual dengan rombong setinggi pinggang yang didorong. Di sana ada dua lodong besar yang ditanam di dalam rombong. Yang satu berisi godir alias cincau, yang satu lagi berisi es batu yang telah digerus dan dicampur dengan santan. Sementara gula cair ada di dalam toples, diletakkan di atas rombong dan diikat tampar karet.
Sementara krupuk upil dijajakan dengan menggendongnya keliling kampung. Sementara sambal petis yang dicampur tepung diletakkan di ember kecil lalu dijinjing. Dalam perkembangannya, penjual krupuk upil berkeliling kampung dengan sepeda angin lama. Itu lho yang biasanya disebut sepeda kebo, tapi merek Phoenix, buatan China.
Namanya jajanan yang datang di masa lalu, selalu menyimpan kenangan. Sebagai makanan jalanan, jajanan ringan ini sangat akrab ketika masih bangku sekolah. Jajanan tradisional memang sering membuat kita kangen.
Namanya krupuk upil, namun sebenarnya ini hanyalah kiasan. Sebenarnya ini adalah krupuk dari bahan tepung, digoreng dengan pasir, dan rasanya asin menggoda. Apakah rasanya sama dengan upil (kotoran hidung)? Anda bisa menjawabnya sendiri.
Yang jelas, meski zaman sudah berganti, krupuk upil masih tetap disukai. Ini terbukti dengan masih banyaknya penjual di jalan-jalan utama Surabaya. Krupuk yang renyah, asin, dan cenderung murah ini tetap disukai. Tentu saja, penampilannya jauh lebih bersih dengan kemasan yang modern. Beberapa diantaranya sudah mengadopsi trik pemasaran modern dengan memberikan rasa-rasa baru.
Meski demikian, kenangan itu selalu tertambat pada versi original. Coba bayangkan, kerupuk pasir yang renyah lalu dicolet pakai petis. Renyahnya kerupuk pasir ini membuat susah untuk berhenti.
Krupuk pasir ini dibilang lebih sehat, karena tidak digoreng dengan minyak. Proses penggorengannya memang berbeda dari krupuk lainnya. Krupuk ini digoreng dengan menggunakan pasir. Tentunya pasir yang dipakai sudah dicuci, disaring, dan dibersihkan terlebih dahulu. Kemudian pasir tersebut dipanaskan di atas wajan tanah liar. Pasir di-gongso secara konsisten di atas wajan sampai panas merata. Bara api dibawahnya memakai kayu bakar. Alasannya, agar rasa yang dihasilkan ada aroma “sangit” yang khas. Atau bahasa kerennya, lebih “smokey”.
Krupuk pasir ini bahan dasarnya adalah tepung kanji alias tapioka. Kemudian diberi bumbu bawang putih dan garam, adonan ini dibentuk dan dipotong tipis. Setelah itu baru dijemur di terik matahari. Setelah benar-benar kering baru digoreng di wajan pasir. Krupuk pasir yang masih baru ini rasanya sungguh ngangeni. Krupuk pasir dan krupuk goreng minyak memang berbeda. Tidak percaya? Coba sandingkan. Bagaimana kalau ada sisa pasir yang tersisa? Ya bisa saja, buktinya dimakan juga tidak masalah.
Renyahnya krupuk upil memang bisa dicocol dengan sambal petisnya. Kalau beli kebanyakan, bisa juga jadi teman nasi goreng atau nasi pecel. Krupuk upil juga banyak dijual bersama rujak manis di sepanjang Jalan Dr Soetomo – Jalan Polisi Istimewa.
Es Godir yang Dingin dan Kenyal
Selesai dengan krupuk, kini cerita tentang rekannya satu rombong. Sehati dan sepenanggungan, es godir juga selalu dekat dengan krupuk upil. Harganya murah, porsinya pas, cocok untuk melepas dahaga di jalanan. Namanya es godir, bahan utamanya juga godir, alias agar-agar. Namun karena prosesnya dibuat secara tradisional, agar-agar ini tak bisa transparan seperti kaca. Agar-agar buatan pabrik cenderung bersih, rapi, dan bening.
Es godir sebenarnya mirip-mirip dengan es cincau hijau Betawi, es cendol Solo, es daluman Bali, es goyobot Garut. Namun tentu saja lain daerah, lain rasa. Es gudir alias es godir lebih dikenal di Jawa Timur. Selain Surabaya, daerah lain yang akrab dengan minuman ini adalah Jombang, Kediri, Tulungagung, hingga ke selatan di Blitar.
Es godir ini sebenarnya sangat sederhana. Bahan utamanya adalah godir (cincau hijau) kemudian disiram dengan sirup gula aren, santan, air, dan es batu. Untuk aroma biasanya hadir dari pandan yang direndam dalam gula aren dan santan. Ada pula yang memberikan toping nangka dan mutiara. Namun yang khas Surabaya jarang yang memakai topping. Dengan cuaca yang panas, yang penting dingin dan airnya yang banyak.
Setiap pedagang mempunyai resep yang berbeda. Perbedaan itu biasanya dari sirup gula aren serta kenyalnya godir. Beda lainnya adalah santannya yang gurih. Masing-masing orang punya selera yang berbeda, jadi rata-rata juga punya langganan masing-masing.
Di Surabaya, es godir yang dulu banyak dijual di depan SD atau keliling kampung, sekarang banyak dijajakan di sekitar pasar tradisional, atau di pinggir-pinggir jalan besar yang dekat keramaian pasar swalayan.
Es godir dan krupuk upil masih jadi pilihan di tengah camilan modern yang semakin banyak jenisnya. Namun, sesuatu yang dibalut dengan kenangan, tak akan bisa terlupa. –sa
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